Inspiration from Greece

The young woman from the Alpine high country of East Gippsland, whose family has grazed cattle on the Nunniong high plains, was spreading her wings and seeking new experiences.

"When I first travelled overseas, I went to Greece and immediately noticed how similar the country was to Mt Stawell - hot, dry, hungry country," Mrs Paterson said.

She noted the extensive olive groves and her love affair with the oil began.

In 1998, when her father was looking to retire, Mrs Paterson jumped at the opportunity to buy part of the property on Mt Stawell, in the old Tongio settlement.

"My family asked why I wanted to buy the farm. I said I wanted to grow olives," Mrs Paterson said.

She remembers their disbelief "because a lot of the block is unusable because it's sheer" and earmarked the remaining 35 per cent for her pioneer venture.

The olive oil industry was still in its infancy and Mrs Paterson "did lots of reading and research, joined the Australian Olive Association where we all helped each other and learnt by doing."

With a Spring pumping licence from the nearby Tambo River to provide off-river water storage nine months of the year and the similarity in soil type and climate "except the winters aren't as cold as Tuscany," she began planning and planting her olive grove.

The water is critical: "I couldn't grow the trees without irrigation," Mrs Paterson said.

"Rainfall here is unreliable. The average year-round total is good, but you can never rely on it to rain when you need it."

There are now 3500 olive trees planted in a series of groves on the foothills and river flats, the elder planted in 1998 and the youngsters seven years ago.

Varieties of Frantoio, Correggiola and Leccino are cross-pollinated with Pendelino. The trees are all bi-annual bearing.

She grows using organic principles and uses a seaweed foliar fertiliser monthly and applies compost regularly to the trees, which are pruned into a vase shape.

Harvest is early May, using two mechanical shakers and electric rakes.

From the start, Mrs Paterson's plans included processing olive oil on site, within four hours of picking to the completed pressing, to retain the extra-virgin status.

She has used two presses - the second one, to press 2.5 tonne an hour, was brought from Italy and installed by its designer and engineer during a period of 10 days.

"It's my pride and joy," she said, admitting she is solely responsible for pressing the olives.

Her annual olive oil harvest is 8000-10,000 litres or 48-60t of a golden, peppery olive oil, with a balance of fruit and bitterness.

"From the start, I entered the oil in the Australian Olive Association's awards and we've never been out of the medals since 2004," Mrs Paterson said.

"Nullamunjie won the association's gold medal in 2012 and numerous silver and bronze medals.

"This year we won the Melbourne Show Fine Food Awards silver medal for extra virgin olive oil.

"Victoria produces about 44pc of the national olive oil harvest, so I was keen to support the Victorian awards."

Mrs Paterson began marketing the olive oil in 2004 at farmers markets and door-to-door sales. But while looking for overseas markets, she encountered her biggest customer - and today exports 80pc of production to America.

The remaining 20pc is sold to many early customers who still make up her loyalty base; and used in the on-site restaurant.

The Pressing Shed café "came about because the pressing shed was sitting there unused for much of the year and I thought it was an opportunity to educate people about using olive oil," Mrs Paterson said.

Adding an extensive kitchen garden and using fruit from the orchard planted after World War II and other local produce, Mrs Paterson uses olive oil in all the food she makes "and nothing leaves the kitchen without a drizzle on top".

Diners can enjoy the ambience of the olive groves, the mountain views and scenery down the Tambo Valley and, closer to their feet, the chickens scratching in the garden - and food containing a peppery drop of sunshine.