THE Victorian truffle industry has grown in the past decade, driven by the desire of farmers to understand the secrets to growing these fungi and the ability of small landholders to produce a crop.
While most truffle farms are still in their infancy as far as production goes, farmers' knowledge of growing the elusive truffle is increasing - mostly driven by need and industry investment into research and development.
The Australian truffle industry originated in Tasmania with the establishment of the first truffière, or truffle farm, in 1992 and the harvest of the first Australian French black truffle in 1999.
The Australian wholesale market for French black truffles is estimated at about one tonne or almost $2 million annually, according to research from the Rural Industries Research & Development Corporation.
There are now more than 160 truffle farms in Australia, although many are not producing the fungi, mainly because of their young age.
In Victoria, truffières are now established in Gippsland, the Otway region and central Victoria, particularly around Kyneton and Trentham.
While some people are keen to establish a truffière and produce truffles, others are focusing on research and development.
However, the interest of chefs is creating an industry demand that is pleasing to farmers in particular.
Truffles are an elite food, comparable to saffron, beluga caviar and the best beef steak, according to growers.
It is also value for money as little is required in food for the diner to enjoy the "truffle experience".
"I first tasted truffle at the Hilton Hotel in Melbourne and was blown away," said Stuart Dunbar, a truffle farmer in the Yarra Valley.
"It was love at first taste.
"When I was looking to retire, I decided cultivating truffles would be interesting - although I don't expect farming truffles to replace my superannuation."
Mr Dunbar planted his one-hectare truffière of 600 inoculated trees - 400 hazelnuts and 200 oaks - in 2006 and began harvesting in 2011.
Last year, he harvested a 700-gram truffle as part of a total saleable harvest of five kilograms.
He estimates he needs to produce 10kg of truffles to make a commercial return on his investment in establishing the truffière.
"I am still a couple of years off full production," he said.
"I learned a lot by the seat of my pants, because the industry is very secretive.
"I looked at the property and the climate and thought truffles would be something that fitted.
"Then I applied my background in chemistry and biology and looked at the truffle morphologically.
"Our truffière is sited on a southerly slope and I think this helps the soil to warm in winter.
"When I first started pruning, my initial idea was to enable the frost to get under the tree.
"I still think that has an impact but the truffle forms in December so the shape enables the sun's warmth to hit the ground.
"Then the truffle gets active and starts extracting nutrients -- particularly phosphorus -- from the soil and nitrogen from the atmosphere."
Mr Dunbar has developed a local trade for his truffle harvest, providing them to restaurants and a Melbourne delicatessen and grocery store.
"If you tell a chef you own a truffière, he wants to know you," he said.
Last year, he held his first truffle hunt after being approached by Chateau Yering chef Mathew Macartney of Eleonore's Restaurant.
This year, he repeated the experience with a number of hunts, including one in July booked by celebrity chef Guy Grossi to celebrate Bastille Day.
- Full story in the Stock & Land September 25 edition
